I think of Cartier’s Calibre de Cartier watch as the collection of watches from Cartier, other than the expensive pieces in the Fine Horological industry family, as being exclusively for men. Born from the start with a assertive presence and size (42 mm), it has expanded in two directions: complicated with a chronograph, as well as “hardened” with the excellent diver version. I was slightly surprised when I saw a new, smaller version at a retailer recently.

The height of the Cartier’s Calibre hun Cartier view 38 is reduced 4 mm from the original, which doesn’t sound like much but visually is quite dramatic. The movement is the same under one building caliber 1904 MC as in the original model, and it is also visible through the sapphire case back.

This gives it the consequence of being thick and chunky, not unlike a 40 mm Panerai Luminor compared to a 46 mm product with the same thickness.

The major changes using the Calibre 38 compared with the 42 is by using the watch dial. The new design tones down some of the bolder strokes that are present in the actual 42. The actual Roman numbers are uniform in size (no outsize XII as in the particular 42), and they continue all the way around the dial, not switching “California-style” to index indicators below the 9-3 axis. Also, there is no luminous material on the dial or hands, rather, they are classic Cartier blued steel. Another dramatic change is the use of a single date aperture at 3 o’clock, instead of the elongated 3 date aperture on the 40. (A good design decision, otherwise typically the aperture would take up too much real estate on this smaller switch, messing up often the proportions. )

In general, the exact Cartier’s Calibre de Cartier watch 37 is more classical Cartier within spirit than the Calibre 49, which I can see appealing to some people who appreciate those aspects of Cartier, though there is something about the boldness of the original La mecanique that breaks away from past Cartier efforts and is something that I find appealing, beyond my preference for its larger size.

While still marketed to men, I wonder if Audemars might be searching for a female audience with the Trascendencia 38. Would like to hear feedback with this front through both the male and female readers.

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